Reworking lock cylinders for ignition key

Elaborated: Wojas

Factory new honkers leave the factory equipped with one key (2 of course) that fits everything (ignition, doors, glove boxes, fuel filler flaps).

Factory key for honker - fits all locks and ignition.
Factory key for honker - fits all locks and ignition.

Most vehicles available second-hand already have some locks or the ignition replaced, and sometimes the car comes with a whole bunch of keys.

Old and new type inserts
Old and new type inserts

In the stores Moto-Trans of Koszalin and RAWMOT of Rawa Mazowiecka, there are admittedly sets of locks available at a decent price, the only downside is that the sets are based on old-type cylinders so they differ from the ignition key. So ultimately we have to use two keys anyway.

The solution is to match the lock cylinders to the ignition key you have.


Honkers use handles from the Fiat 126p, so the lock inserts come from that vehicle as well. It should be noted that there are two types of locks, the newer ones from the baby elegance(key with plastic handle) and the older standard ones (metal key).

On the left is the cylinder of the new type, on the right the old. The easiest way to know them is by the type of key attached.
On the left is the cylinder of the new type, on the right the old. The easiest way to know them is by the type of key attached.

Since the ignition switch for the 2000 honker has a key lock of the new type, we need to purchase inserts of the same type to proceed with matching them.


Matching - or how we don't recommend doing it.

Recognizing the topic, I asked around at several key making places and read a bit of advice on the Internet, and almost everywhere as part of cylinder fitting it is suggested to grind the latches for a new key. This is certainly the easiest and fastest method, however, I strongly advise against it. I will describe why in a moment. But first a few words on how the lock works:

Lock cylinder with inserted matching key. All bolts are retracted so the lock rotates.
Lock cylinder with inserted matching key. All latches are retracted so that the lock rotates.
A lock cylinder with a mismatched key inserted. Some of the pawls become protruded, making the lock impossible to turn. The simplest, not recommended method is to grind off the protruding pawls with the target key inserted.
A lock cylinder with a mismatched key inserted. Some of the pawls become protruded, making the lock impossible to turn. The simplest, not recommended method is to grind off the protruding pawls with the target key inserted.
At the top is the unmodified lock, at the bottom is the lock with grinded latches for the new key. Note that in the closed position very few pawls lock the lock from turning.
At the top is the unmodified lock, at the bottom is the lock with grinded latches for the new key. Note that in the closed position very few pawls lock the lock from turning.

As you can see in the above photo, grinding the latches causes a strong weakening of the lock in the closed position, and in addition, such a damaged lock can be opened by every 2-3 keys due to the strong limitation of the number of possible combinations.


Matching - the right method

To adjust the lock cylinder, you need to take the cylinder apart and get the latches out of it. To do this, undermine the sheet metal below:

This locking plate for the pawls must be extracted. Be careful of the small springs at each latch that are held by this plate.
This locking plate for the pawls must be extracted. Be careful of the small springs at each latch that are held by this plate.

The method will involve selecting the correct latches and thus "programming" the lock cylinders for the new key. For this method, we will need more cylinders than we ultimately need, due to the fact that we need to have a large supply of latches for "programming". Fortunately, the pawls are the same in the old type of cylinders as in the new, so I just happened to have a large supply of cylinders from the old and new handles.

Pulled pawls and the springs that hold them.
Pulled pawls and the springs that hold them.

To "program" the cylinder, insert the target key and adjust the latches so that none protrude from either side:

Lock cylinder with inserted matching key. All bolts are retracted so the lock rotates.
Properly "programmed" lock cylinder.

After fitting the pawls, we need to place the springs on them and put the locking plate in place. In this way we will get a full-fledged insert that fits our ignition key.


Installation of inserts in door handles and in locks of storage compartments/fuel filler caps.

Installation of new inserts is trivial. It is necessary to knock out a pin in the handle or in the locker/fuel filler lock. After removing it, you will get the possibility to pull out the insert. After replacing them, all you need to do is assemble everything in reverse order and hammer in the safety pins.

Marked pins to be knocked out. After removing them, we can replace the inserts.
Marked pins to be knocked out. After removing them, we can replace the inserts.
Handle with the lock cylinder pulled out.
Handle with the lock cylinder pulled out.

In the end, we are left to enjoy a single key that fits everything.

Finished car kit without storage compartments. Three handles + two fuel fillers
Finished car kit without storage compartments. Three handles + two fuel fillers

 

 

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