HONKER2000 meter modification - version 1 (lublin tachometer)

Modifications made:

  • replacement of the analog clock with a tachometer
  • replacement of standard backlighting with LED with the possibility of fluent adjustment of light intensity
  • UPDATE: replacement of the speedometer with the Lublin model (scaled to 160km/h instead of the original 200km/h) - description at the very end

Elaborated: Wojas

Comparison of modified and original clocks:

honker clocks


Part1: Installing a tachometer

Required components:

  • Tachometer from Lublin with andoria engine (mechanism needed)
  • Clocks from a diesel Polonez (you need the front part of the clock case, the so-called "glass", the tachometer dial)

Modification Description:

Honker 2000 although it does not have a tachometer has a ready-made installation for it. The only thing you need to do is to install the device itself in the clocks.

Unfortunately, there is no ready-made tachometer on the market that fits without modification (UPDATE: as of the end of 2018 whole clocks with built-in tachometer are now available, the description of the installation of these clocks is available in the section WARSZTAT). Dedicated to these engines are tachometers from lublin, however, due to the different design of the clocks do not fit without modification. On the other hand, tachometers from Polonez diesel (versions with clocks like those in H2000) fit perfectly, however, due to the use of a different engine, they do not indicate correctly without interference in their electronics(description of this modification in the WARSZTAT section).

This article will describe the option of matching the tachometer from the clocks from the lublin. 

The first step is to install the dial from the Polonez diesel tachometer in place of the lublin tachometer dial. Both have the same arrangement of the various ranges of rotation. This conversion is only for aesthetic purposes, as the font and color of the lublin's backlighting will differ from the other dials on the honker's clocks. In addition, in the lublin dial there is a hole after the potentiometer used to adjust the intensity of the backlight - we will not translate this to the honker (due to the led backlight used and design differences) so a dial without a hole will be better. The second solution is to leave the tachometer from the lublin with the original dial and translate the speedometer also from the lublin(no modification required). The solution also has the advantage that this speedometer is scaled to 160km/h instead of the original one with an abstract 200km/h 😉

And this is what the tachometers look like from the Polonez and Lublin:

honker clocks honker clocks

As you can see, the tachometer plate from the lublin is much larger due to which the device does not fit in the clocks without modifications:

honker clocks honker clocks

To solve this problem, you need to unscrew the board from the white housing of the tachometer mechanism, extend the two wires with which it is connected and lead it through any of the holes to the outside of the clocks. It is optimal to find some kind of housing for the board.

Electrical connection of the tachometer:

This is what the honker's clocks look like from the back, with arrows marking the places dedicated to connecting the tachometer:

honker clocks

Add wires to the marked points and connect them to the board according to the pattern in the photo:

honker clocks

  • Red: +12V
  • Black: MASS
  • Yellow: alternator signal

After unscrewing the electronics board, the tachometer already fits into the clock housing. Unfortunately, due to the conflicting location of the recesses for the plugs, it is not possible to position the tachometer in the right place. There is a shortage of about 3-4mm, to compensate for this, unfortunately, you need to cut out part of the rear housing with the plugs and move it down by these few mm, and then glue it together with, for example, hot glue.

honker clocks

The final step is to replace the front part of the housing of the so-called "glass" with the one from the Polonez clocks - that is, without the hole for the clock adjustment knob. When doing so, remember to translate the pictograms from the honker "glass" because these differ from the Polonez ones.

After plugging the clocks into the car, we can already enjoy a working tachometer (the tachometer in the video may slightly skew because it has not yet been adjusted):


Part2: Replacing the backlight with leds

The purpose of the modification is to enhance the illumination of individual icons, which in the honker 2000 are practically invisible on a sunny day, to illuminate the clock faces evenly (aesthetics), and to add the ability to change the intensity of the dial illumination.

Required components:

  • 12V LED strips
  • LEDs shining with the strongest possible white light - 12V
  • LED dimmer MD-1 (necessary to regulate light intensity) - there is a possibility to use another dimmer
  • time delay and shortening relay (necessary for the dimmer used in the description)

Description of alterations:

Step 1: Solder the LEDs in place of the bulbs in the baskets. Pay attention to polarity when reassembling.

NOTE: I did not change the charging illumination (battery icon), because after changing to an led, the alternator did not excite. So we leave the original bulb, which is factory much stronger than the others, and thus there is no trouble with its visibility (it can be distinguished by the blue holder).


Step 2: To improve the illumination effect of the icons, you can paint the spaces of the individual bulbs with chrome imitation paint:

honker clocks

Step 3: Trim and paste the LED strips under the clock faces so that the various scales are evenly illuminated. Solder all the strips together into a single circuit (so that all the strips are connected by plus and minus to one pair of wires, which will be connected to the outputs of the LED dimmer.

honker clocks

Step 4: Installation of the LED dimmer in the clock housing (the place indicated in the photo), connecting the ground and the plus that turns on the backlight of the clocks (when the lights are turned on) to its inputs, connecting the momentary switch that controls the dimmer (we choose the length of the cable depending on where we want to mount the switch).

Step 5: Installation of a time-delay and shorting relay: ASE 5DSP20

Due to the fact that the LED dimmer used does not turn on the backlight automatically when voltage is received (it requires a short press of the control button), a relay should be used to simulate such an action. Otherwise, we will have to manually turn on the backlighting of the clocks each time, which would certainly be a nuisance.

The relay should be connected in such a way that the control signal is the plus from the original backlight of the clocks, and to the contacts that will briefly short circuit after receiving a pulse should be connected in parallel by wires running to the control button. The relay, due to its size, should be placed outside the clock case (the same as the tachometer board from the first part of the modification).

The effect after turning on the lights:

Backlight adjustment:

Comparison of the illumination of the icons in the original and modified meter:

UPDATE - September 2017:

Replacing the speedometer with the Lublin model.

The 2000 honker uses slightly modified clocks derived from the Polonez caro/atu, etc. As you know, the speedometers in these cars are calibrated to 200km/h, which in the case of honker is a complete misunderstanding because the standard honker 2000(from 2000-2007) reaches a speed of no more than 125km/h (that's a record in mine 😉 ), while newer ones, manufactured after 2009 and equipped with the ADCR engine settle around 150km/h. However, the truth is that, primarily for safety reasons, these cars rarely exceed 100-110km/h. So it follows that the speedometer's pointer moves only halfway up the scale. It is interesting to note that the faster lublins had speedometers scaled to 160km/h which seems much more appropriate for the 2000 honker as well.

The speedometer from the honker as well as from the lublin have the same ratio, which means that once they are translated, the speed readings will be correct.

The lublin speedometer itself fits into the mounting brackets on the clocks from the honker, and no major modifications are needed to put it on. The only thing that doesn't fit is the clock illumination points, that is, those transparent plastics that lead out around the bulb and thus illuminate the entire clocks. They have to be cut out to make the speedometer fit. However, in the case of the LED illumination described above, there is no trouble, because these plastics are not needed for the dial illumination anyway, but if you want to reposition the speedometer and stay with the original bulbs then forget about the speedometer dial illumination.

It's also worth noting that the fonts and backlight color of the honker and lublin clocks are different. Therefore, if you decide to change the speedometer, you should use the tachometer with the original lublin dial, while if you want to stay with the original speedometer, you will need to additionally replace the dial in the lublin tachometer with one from the Polonez diesel (described above).

The speedometer and tachometer clocks from Lublin look like this:

Converted clocks in a 2000 honker
Converted clocks in a 2000 honker





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